Posted in March 2010

Alfred Molina Does DC’s Rothko Tour

I’ve always liked actor Alfred Molina. Liked him in Frida. Liked his camped-out villain in Spiderman 2. Especially liked him in Jim Jarmusch’s Coffee and Cigarettes.

Now I’ve got new respect for him off-screen as well. Why? The man came to Washington at the height of cherry blossom season, skipped the Tidal Basin and went straight to two of the city’s best art museums to commune with Mark Rothko’s masterpieces.

In preparation for his starring role as Rothko in “Red,” opening this week on Broadway, Molina spent a day at the National Gallery of Art, currently showing a series of black-on-black Rothkos in the East Wing Tower, and the Phillips Collection’s Rothko Room, a permanent exhibition of four of the artist’s paintings.

A couple things to say here: First, the National Gallery holds the nation’s largest collection of Rothkos, so if you’re a fan, this city is ground zero. Second, I’ve always had a soft spot for the Phillips’ Rothko Room. It’s a lovely place to sit and meditate on a Sunday afternoon and let the colors wash over you. In fact, it’s almost as good as a day at the spa; the artist’s blues and greens in particular put me in a zen state-of-mind.

So, Molina and I are kindred spirits. I’m booking a ticket to see “Red” in June, when I Amtrak to New York for the travel bloggers’ conference, TBEX ’10. I’ll be channeling the Rothko Room as I watch.

Image: Mark Rothko, Untitled, 1957, National Gallery of Art

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The Cherry Blossom Alternative


For my money, the tulip trees behind the Smithsonian Castle are just as spectacular as the cherry blossoms, and a lot less trampled.

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‘Sacred Waters’: A Travel Photo Primer

A few months ago, I read a helpful column on travel photography that advised, “Ask yourself what story you are trying to tell.” In other words, play photojournalist, not tourist.

I thought of that as I took in “Sacred Waters”, a vibrant new photo exhibit of people celebrating, worshiping and otherwise interacting with water, now on at National Geographic headquarters in downtown DC. Photographer John Stanmeyer, whose work is also featured in this month’s Nat Geo print edition, tells the story of how cultures identify with water, showing us a river baptism in Kentucky, ritual bathing in the Ganges, and Lunar New Year celebrations in Laos, complete with super-soakers.

The photos really hit home. Not only did Stanmeyer snap water scenes in several countries I’ve traveled to–Haiti, Turkey and Indonesia–he reminded me that water makes for great narrative because it touches on everything from religious rituals to daily chores.

This water-themed photo I shot last fall shows two men washing before prayers at Istanbul’s New Mosque. It calls up a vivid memory: Observing noontime prayer at the mosque, which has an open courtyard filled with pigeons, was one of the highlights of my trip.

I’m no Stanmeyer, but at least he’s given me a benchmark to shoot for.

Sacred Waters runs through July 25, 2010.

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Afghan Arts and Letters

It seems Americans’ perception of Afghanistan these days revolves around words like “stronghold” and “surge.” I only have a vague sense of what everyday life is like there, so a new Library of Congress exhibit of letters written by Afghans to Radio Azadi, the Afghan branch of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, is especially welcome.

Since Radio Azadi launched in December 2001 — part of a post-9/11 democracy-building effort by the U.S. Congress–Afghan listeners have sent more than 15,000 letters to the station, many of which wend their way, by foot or donkey, to Kabul, then on to RFE/RL’s headquarters in Prague.

Sending a letter in Afghanistan has its challenges– rugged terrain, non-functioning post offices among them–but the station’s correspondents appear undeterred. Teachers write of overloaded classrooms; others ask for intervention with government officials ; some write only to request a song.

“We really don’t know why the government is daydreaming,” writes one man from Kabul, wondering why promises of food aid haven’t materialized. “Do we have a government or not?”

While you could read the exhibit as a literary town hall meeting– enlightening in itself–Voices From Afghanistan also succeeds on artistic merits. Many of the letters are embellished with intricate floral and animal illustrations, carrying on a centuries-old Afghan tradition of illuminating texts and poems , and highlighting the culture’s reverence for the written word.

The writing itself–in Dari or Pashto–is charmingly formal: missives open with a greeting or wishes for a “happy Eid” to the staff of Radio Azadi, followed by a few lines of poetry or words of advice.

The exhibit notes that listener e-mails are on the rise as Afghanistan becomes increasingly wired, but one hopes the art of letter writing, as Afghans practice it, won’t soon be replaced.

Voices From Afghanistan runs through May 8 at the Thomas Jefferson Building, Library of Congress, Washington, D.C.

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Tibetan Monk at Work


Tibetan monks will be working all week at the Sackler Gallery to create a sand mandala, or sacred painting. Next Sunday, the painting will be swept away, as a way to symbolize the impermanence of nature.

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Cherry Blossoms 2010: They’re Here

My first cherry blossom sighting of 2010, on the Mall in front of the Hirshhorn.

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It’s All About the Jimmy Choos

The big news out of the Smithsonian this week was the donation of Michelle Obama’s inaugural gown to the National Museum of American History. Mostly, I was pleased for Taiwan-born designer Jason Wu, who will forever be enshrined on the Mall.

But there was little mention of Michelle’s shoes–white satin Jimmy Choos, with what looks to be a 4-inch heel.

First, I’m impressed she made it through all those inaugural balls in these things. Second, Jimmy Choo may get the biggest publicity boost of all the players involved in this donation. Earlier today, when I stopped by to snap this, tourists kept murmuring his name as if chanting a mantra.

First Ladies at the Smithsonian is a permanent exhibit at the National Museum of American History.

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On Georgia O’Keeffe’s Hands

This week marked International Women’s Day, so if you’re looking to honor female artists (and why not?), no better place to start than the Phillips Collection’s current Georgia O’Keeffe exhibit.

I’ve always been lukewarm on O’Keeffe’s flower paintings, so I sailed past those, right to the erotically charged black-and-white photos of O’Keeffe by husband/muse Alfred Stieglitz. These make the show. There are nudes, then there are several of just O’Keeffe’s hands. I especially liked this portrait of the painter curling her hands to her chest; it’s hard not to focus on them.

Obviously, Stieglitz meant to showcase the power and talent in O’Keeffe’s hands, made for women’s work– breaking glass ceilings one brushstroke at a time. I’ll never look at one of those jack-in-the-pulpits the same way again.

Georgia O’Keeffe: Abstraction runs through May 9, 2010.

Image: Alfred Stieglitz, Georgia O’Keeffe: A Portrait

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In Japanese Internment Camps, Art as Endurance


Out of a shameful chapter in U.S. history, moments of grace.

That pretty much sums up the remarkable collection of handmade objects on view at the Renwick Gallery exhibit, The Art of Gaman: Arts and Crafts from the Japanese American Internment Camps, 1942-1946.

I knew about the camps, of course, thanks to my AP American History teacher, but the experience of internees seems underreported even today.

The 120,000 ethnic Japanese who were forcibly relocated during the war– a shocking two-thirds of whom were American citizens by birth–evidently found ways to make art amid the misery. Paintings, Buddhist shrines, carved teapots, hand-sewn baseball jerseys: they’re all testament to years spent waiting, creating objects of beauty as the California desert sent clouds of dust rolling through the barracks.

The exhibit’s most unforgettable items are the small, carved bird pins, painted in painstaking detail. Based on photographs from back issues of National Geographic, the pins were particularly popular in the arts and crafts classes offered throughout the camps. Japanese love of craftsmanship aside, it’s easy to imagine the artists taking mental flight.

The Art of Gaman runs through January 30, 2011.

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